Archived Random POG Questions

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PackAndCry

Furniture, Call Button One
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Oct 13, 2017
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1. Is there a trick to getting the label strip holder back into the basedeck of a gondola? I have no problem getting them out, but they seem significantly harder to get back in than the ones on the regular shelves and it takes me like 5 minutes to finally sort of jam it in there.

2. Any tips for getting backer paper up? I have a hard time getting it to look as neat as it seems like it should.

3. How exactly do the battleships attach to the gondola? I haven't had to use one yet, but looking at them on the shelf I didn't see how they attach- I couldn't get them off the shelf without moving everything around, but they didn't seem to have a way to attach to the same thing the shelves do, which is what I was expecting (but I may have just not noticed it).
 
image.jpeg 1. Using your pog tool, run it down the top of the strip. I am assuming that you are using old style ones.
2. Start at the top corner, push the clip partially in. That way, if you have move the paper, it can be done quickly.
3. A battleship locks into shelve slots, like a regular shelve.
 
We have them, the other POG TMs don't use them, but I figure it can't hurt to at least try it. I think I'll have to try to get my PPTL to order more of the POG tools, we only have two for the four of us.
 
When I started pog in 2008 we had battleships but nobody used them. By about 2010 they'd been thrown out.
 
I'm just horrible at measuring the shelf heights lol
 
We just use a measuring tape and sing ABC's to each dot.

As far as base deck label strips go:

If it's the type that grip around and under the lip, lift the base deck up if you can and work it.
If it's the pressure grip that sits inside the trench, put the bottom in first and use a thin, blunt or dulled edge to work the top lip into the trench.

Backer paper:

The spirals are meant to go in first and you hang the backer paper off the little notch. As you can imagine (or have experienced) a soft breeze blows the backer paper right off.

What I do is apply the bottom paper first, securing it at the top of the sheet with two push-ins. Tuck the bottom of this sheet behind the base deck (you can pull out the base deck first and press it over the sheet). It stays put just fine and once you got product in front of it, it's not going anywhere anyways. Then secure the top sheet at the top in one corner, pull taut and secure the other top corner, then do the same for the bottom two corners. As long as the paper wasn't folded weirdly it should look fine.
 
The spirals are meant to go in first and you hang the backer paper off the little notch. As you can imagine (or have experienced) a soft breeze blows the backer paper right off.
Sorry, what are spirals?

Is there a way to print ONLY the header label for the pog? Is that what automatically goes into a label batch when you tie the pog? My PPTL keeps saying to print price accuracy labels on the signing PC, then take the header label and toss the rest, but I can't imagine that's right and I feel like that's screwing something else up (isn't that taking it out of pricing's workload so we end up having the incorrect price on the shelf?).
 
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I call them spirals but there's probably an official name for them. You usually find them in little baggies with the boxes of backer paper. Sometimes its just a simple peg that wedges into a peg hole. A year or so ago Target wanted to eliminate having to un-wedge them every time there was a backer paper change, so those got replaced by a peg with a spiral pattern that was supposed to be more secure in the peg hole.

Don't worry about affecting Price Accuracy's job. They have special functions under their user name in their MyDevice that activates the new prices. That's what's getting tracked and how the new prices are used. The PA labels are usually because the printing company for the label strips couldn't get the correction to the template in time.
 
I call them spirals but there's probably an official name for them. You usually find them in little baggies with the boxes of backer paper. Sometimes its just a simple peg that wedges into a peg hole. A year or so ago Target wanted to eliminate having to un-wedge them every time there was a backer paper change, so those got replaced by a peg with a spiral pattern that was supposed to be more secure in the peg hole.

Don't worry about affecting Price Accuracy's job. They have special functions under their user name in their MyDevice that activates the new prices. That's what's getting tracked and how the new prices are used. The PA labels are usually because the printing company for the label strips couldn't get the correction to the template in time.
Spirals are called neopegs. They replaced canoe clips, but make the backer paper look sloppy. I've convinced the pptl, stl, and etl to confine them to seasonal and endcaps.
 
Sorry, what are spirals?

Is there a way to print ONLY the header label for the pog? Is that what automatically goes into a label batch when you tie the pog? My PPTL keeps saying to print price accuracy labels on the signing PC, then take the header label and toss the rest, but I can't imagine that's right and I feel like that's screwing something else up (isn't that taking it out of pricing's workload so we end up having the incorrect price on the shelf?).
No, no , no!!!!

Okay...when you tie your pog it automatically batches the labels for you. If you are connected to a portable printer it can print on there. (That’s the best way to print just the header label too). If not then you’ll print your label batch off the sign and label pc. You need all those price accuracy labels. You’ll have your header, any peg labels, and then price accuracy labels. Those labels are to cover up an incorrect price on the pre-printed label strip. Your PPTL telling you to throw them away is completely wrong. You aren’t messing with the price change team. Those labels aren’t even in their workload because that price is already current and active. They will not be back in those aisle to change labels unless the price for that specific item goes back up or down. So by you not putting the correct labels up that item can sit there for days or weeks at the wrong price. If it’s a big enough price difference it WILL be found when a guest challenges it at the register. Should weights and measures come in....oh buddy!

Oh, and neo pegs are the worst. We still use canoe clips and my STL is fine with it.
 
No, no , no!!!!

Okay...when you tie your pog it automatically batches the labels for you. If you are connected to a portable printer it can print on there. (That’s the best way to print just the header label too). If not then you’ll print your label batch off the sign and label pc. You need all those price accuracy labels. You’ll have your header, any peg labels, and then price accuracy labels. Those labels are to cover up an incorrect price on the pre-printed label strip. Your PPTL telling you to throw them away is completely wrong. You aren’t messing with the price change team. Those labels aren’t even in their workload because that price is already current and active. They will not be back in those aisle to change labels unless the price for that specific item goes back up or down. So by you not putting the correct labels up that item can sit there for days or weeks at the wrong price. If it’s a big enough price difference it WILL be found when a guest challenges it at the register. Should weights and measures come in....oh buddy!

Oh, and neo pegs are the worst. We still use canoe clips and my STL is fine with it.
Oh my. Thanks for the info. Can't you tell that my training was just the best? I'll have to see about getting a portable printer, we always seem to have extras so that should help.
 
Lol. To show you heights and peg locations. I have been a Target for a long time and while we have them I have never used them and I don’t train my pog team members how to use them.

Yeah, they'd probably become a bit of a crutch. However, there is one legitimate use for them... when they decide to send solid paper for pegged locations... gah! I do not want to poke holes (or feel for holes way too many times) into that paper a lot.
 
Yeah, they'd probably become a bit of a crutch. However, there is one legitimate use for them... when they decide to send solid paper for pegged locations... gah! I do not want to poke holes (or feel for holes way too many times) into that paper a lot.
I just put a piece of pegged paper over the non pegged, punch all my holes and then take it down and move to the next section
 
Yeah, they'd probably become a bit of a crutch. However, there is one legitimate use for them... when they decide to send solid paper for pegged locations... gah! I do not want to poke holes (or feel for holes way too many times) into that paper a lot.
Tap a buddy and have them shine their phone flashlight from the back. Bonus is you are working and have to use your phone, so chance to check fb or whatever.
 
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3. A battleship locks into shelve slots, like a regular shelve.
What part of the battleship locks into the slots? Ours don't seem to have the normal things shelves have, but they do have small metal prongs on the back that don't seem like they would actually lock into the shelf slots. I'll have to take a picture of the back, or I might just be missing something obvious. I can get them to sit on top of the gondola and the prongs sort of hold them in place, but it's not locked in place firmly or anything.
 
What part of the battleship locks into the slots? Ours don't seem to have the normal things shelves have, but they do have small metal prongs on the back that don't seem like they would actually lock into the shelf slots. I'll have to take a picture of the back, or I might just be missing something obvious. I can get them to sit on top of the gondola and the prongs sort of hold them in place, but it's not locked in place firmly or anything.
They hook into the peg board.
 
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