Archived Target Electronics Champion Training?

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Ligithrese

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I'm relatively new to Target. I haven't ever worked in the electronics section of a retail store, but I have worked in retail before. I know quite a bit about electronics already, and I've learned so much during training but now I have a test called Target Electronics Champion Quiz, and I have to pass it in order to continue working at Target.
I'm nervous because though I know a decent amount about gaming consoles and cameras, as well as the tablets and MP3s, but not nearly enough about TVs or Blu-rays. My trainer went over it and let me read the manual but I don't really know if that's enough. I'm just afraid that I won't pass the quiz, or that I will but I will still be lost on the subject.

So, what are some things I should know about the "electronics champion quiz" and what are some tips on working in electronics?

Thanks so much!
 
I would love to take thequix and see if I'm fit enough to work at electronics. In fact I wouldn;t be suprised if there we're people working ib the store that had the potential to do so.
 
Ligithrese said:
I'm relatively new to Target. I haven't ever worked in the electronics section of a retail store, but I have worked in retail before. I know quite a bit about electronics already, and I've learned so much during training but now I have a test called Target Electronics Champion Quiz, and I have to pass it in order to continue working at Target.
I'm nervous because though I know a decent amount about gaming consoles and cameras, as well as the tablets and MP3s, but not nearly enough about TVs or Blu-rays. My trainer went over it and let me read the manual but I don't really know if that's enough. I'm just afraid that I won't pass the quiz, or that I will but I will still be lost on the subject.

So, what are some things I should know about the "electronics champion quiz" and what are some tips on working in electronics?

Thanks so much!
Click to expand...

The thing to remember here is: DON'T PANIC. (😉)

They aren't going to fire you if you don't pass--and, more importantly, you get to sit there and keep retaking it until you do pass. So it's really nothing to worry about. Heck, sit there with the guide open and get a perfect score if you want. They just need to have it on file that you passed.

If you know enough about the products to sell them, you'll be fine (even if you 'cheat' to pass the quiz).

Oh, and be aware that you're gonna have to take this quiz pretty often. They like to release new versions and make the whole team take the quiz over again, even though they've only added/changed one page of the guide (e.g. the difference between 60hz and 120hz, or a change to the iPod section to reflect the features added to the newest model, etc).

(Aside: I haven't taken the last couple versions of the quiz because, frankly, I just got fed up with it. I can say for certain though that the previous versions ALWAYS had problems. One of them had the correct definition for contrast ratio as "it means the TV has better picture quality"--yeah, that's helpful. Another version had a choose-all-that-apply question, but there was literally no way to get it right. I tried answering none of the 4, all of the 4, and all 14 combinations in between. None of them were "correct" according to the quiz.)
 
The champion quiz was a joke when I took it.
What does 1080p mean?
What is a Megapixel?
What is the best connector for a HDTV?

Then of course a lot of Target's quizzes are a joke. On a lot of them, you can restart the test until you get a 100%.
 
I kept in taking the quiz, till I got 100% too. Great outside sources of info are cnet & usatoday, I read those all the time.
 
Ah! So it is like the many quizzes I had to take during training. Okay, that eases my mind.

And, really, that easy of questions? Wow, I was expecting it to be different, considering electronics has so many exceptions when it comes to rules in Target.

Thanks guys! I appreciate it.
 
Yeah, it's a breeze. Took me all of 5 minutes of reading the training guide then taking the quiz. Easy.
 
Okay, good, that makes me feel better.

I have question that's unrelated to this topic: I know how to use a a PDA to an extent, I know how to do ad take down and item search, and all that, but when it comes to zoning and actually knowing where to put the things back at, I'm at a loss. So, when I scan something and it says A16(1) 1-5-1, what exactly does that mean? I know that A16 is the aisle and that's about all I understand. I know one is the section and peg but I don't know what order. For the time being, I've only been looking for where it goes, not actually using the PDA, which wastes time. I was only taught how to use the PDA in passing by my trainer so an explanation would be great!

Thanks!
 
Ligithrese said:
Okay, good, that makes me feel better.

I have question that's unrelated to this topic: I know how to use a a PDA to an extent, I know how to do ad take down and item search, and all that, but when it comes to zoning and actually knowing where to put the things back at, I'm at a loss. So, when I scan something and it says A16(1) 1-5-1, what exactly does that mean? I know that A16 is the aisle and that's about all I understand. I know one is the section and peg but I don't know what order. For the time being, I've only been looking for where it goes, not actually using the PDA, which wastes time. I was only taught how to use the PDA in passing by my trainer so an explanation would be great!

Thanks!
Click to expand...

A16(1) 1-5-1

Aisle A16
Start at section 1 ((1))
Go to the first section (1) (since you started at section 1, you'll still be in the first section of the aisle)
Fifth shelf up, counting the basedeck (5)
First item from the front (1)

or...
C15(3) 2-4-9

Aisle C15
Start at section 3 ((3))
Go to the second section (2) (since you started from section 3, you're now in the fourth section of the aisle)
Fourth shelf up, counting the basedeck (4)
Ninth item from the front (9)

The trickiest part for people seems to be the part that I bolded, but there's nothing complicated. It just means go to that section of the aisle to start.

When you see locations like 3-F1-3, the F1 indicates that it's not a shelf or a standard peghook but rather a hook on a bar, and F1 means that if there's more than one bar, it's either the top bar or the bottom bar (sadly they sometimes swap them).

For peghooks, they'll ALL be in the form of 2-P1-27, or 6-P1-3, or whatever. P1 = peghook. To find which hook is #27 or #3, you'll just have to hunt. Sometimes they're in a logical order, sometimes they aren't. The section will be correct, at least, so you've only got 3 or 4 feet worth of hooks to look through.

And any time the last part of the location has a decimal, e.g. 2-1-3.07, or 1-F2-6.04, that means the item was revised onto the planogram at some point and took something else's place. This is another situation where you'll just have to hunt for it. The section and shelf (or bar) will be correct, so again it's a small space to check.
 
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Thank you so much! That helped me wonderfully yesterday when I closed electronics and hardlines all by my lonesome.
 
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